From the Archives...

It did occur to me that I hadn't posted any photos of Xela. There are a few reasons for this. First, I didn't find all that much of Xela interesting (aesthetically). The second is the large indigenous population made me apprehensive about taking out my camera.

As I mentioned in an early post, many Mayans have a problem with photography. As a tourist you are supposed to ask before you photograph anyone who looks indigenous. I simply really didn't want to take the time to ask. I know, I know, that's probably not the best viewpoint to take, but I really didn't want to bother people. Plus, I think photos are much better when you develop a raport with the person(s). It's difficult to do that on the street.

So, the following photos are what I saw just about everyday in Xela. This is central park, the area around which are municipal buildings, banks, etc. I think this is the nicest looking area in the city.

Xela is located at about 7,000 ft. elevation. You can see the mountains in the background.


On thing Xela does have going for it is a lack of smog. Mornings tend to be very bright and sunny and you have a great view of the surrounding mountains.

In the photo above and to the left, if you look at the area of mountains in between the right column and the small white dome, that's where La Muela (from the 4th of July post) is located.

Back in the U.S.A.

Made it safely back home. But I don't have a cell phone at the moment (or access to anyone's number).

Thanks!

I'm writing this from my hotel room in Dos Lunas. This has to be the best $22.00 I've spent on this trip. The Dutch couple that run the place are very nice and welcoming.

My article is coming along nicely. How often do you get to tie in John Denver, Gene Wilder, and an exploding orange into one article about Guatemala? This is what I love about my job. I never know what to expect other than something.

I fly back tomorrow (Friday, July 10).

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who spent any time on this blog--from one second to an hour or more. Even though this is largely a one-way medium, I feel like this has been a strong link back home.

I have mailed postcards to everyone who requested one. But, Guatemala being Guatemala, I suspect most of the cards will arrive sometime in August.

Traveling alone is a unique experience. You have to rely on yourself, and you can't take shortcuts. I met only a couple of people who were traveling alone for an extended period of time (> a month). But I did meet a lot of couples (e.g. from France, Germany, the U.S.) who were traveling together for 6 months or more.

Some of you may ask me if I plan to return to Guatemala. I am not captivated by Guatemala. I've spent a total of 8 weeks in the country. It has its pretty moments and places. But at its heart, the country is one of poverty, lack of resources, lack of education, and it is full of corruption. This is a country that seems to have lost its way. It is not moving forward nor backward. It simply exists.

During the last 4 weeks I spent here, I lived with a couple--Maria and Hugo. (ed--forgot to get a photo, damn!) They have 4 (I think) grown children and have been together they were 15 years old. Of the 3 homes I have lived in in Guatemala, their home was the most welcoming and inviting. If I do return to Guatemala, it will be to live with them again while attending school.

This may not be my last post. Yes, a twist! I may release the Archive of Almost-Posted and some other fun things I may come up with.

July 4th

So, how does an American celebrate 4th of July in a foreign country?

a) Drive around the town square in a pickup blaring the Star-Spangled Banner?
b) Walk around the town square wearing nothing but the flag and chanting "We're Number 1! We're Number 1!"
c) Hiking with the enemy--a young woman from England.



Of course the first 2 are outrageously attractive prospects. But I chose option C and headed to La Muela ("the molar"). Rose is a university student in England studying Spanish and art. She also lives in the same house with me. And, strangely enough, she's a source for one of my articles.

La Muela is an area of volcanic rock formations just outside of Xela. It's also a religious pilgrimage site. Religious heritages from the Maya and Christianity have created enclaves at the base of the rocks.




That's July 4th Guatemala style.

Chicken Bus

I've been waiting for the right time to capture the "chicken bus" experience. Basically, the chicken bus is a cheap and painfully slow way to travel across Guatemala. (This isn't unique to Guatemala, many other countries use this sort of thing.) 90% of the buses are old buses taken from the U.S.--the big yellow school bus most of us took to school at some point. The buses have been repainted and instead of carrying 2 or 3 to a seat, they are expected to carry 4 in the seat and 2 in the aisle if necessary. But, for $3.00 you can travel 1.5 hours (fares are based on destination not time).

Well, before the bus takes off from a terminal, a lot of people come aboard to sell peanuts, beverages, newspapers, etc. From then on, there are little stops along the road the speed of which can, at times, rival a NASCAR pit stop--people get on, off, luggage taken off the top, put on. Often the rear door isn't closed before the bus starts moving. The ayudante (basically the person in charge of collecting money and coordinating stops) often hangs onto the ladder outside and shuts the door later.

So, why THIS chicken bus experience? At this small stop we picked up a preacher! He preached for probably 30 minutes (in Spanish, of course). This particular bus was about 70% full. I'm standing in front of the rear exit with one hand grasping the luggage rack and the other my camera. I hope the video gives a glimpse into the world of 2nd class transportation.

*If you wait till the end of the video, we hit a bump and I accidentally knock Rose, my travel partner, in the head.

From San Pascual altar just outside of Chichicastenango. You have to walk through the woods and up a small hill to reach the site. Mayan leaders often perform ceremonies (based on Christian and Mayan beliefs) here.

Tajumulco is the highest point in Central America. The summit is about 13,800 feet. That's probably the highest place I've been by 2,000 feet. It was grueling trek through mud, rain, hail, and lightning. I can't write much more because I'm working on the article. But I can tell each of you in person when I get back.

But in the meantime, I've got some video. So, 7 of us were stuck in a tent from about 3:00pm to 3:30am. Ehud (the Israeli) was asleep when I made this. He is a really cool guy who spent 4 years in the IDF. But everyone else was awake. So, just a short, simple introduction of my fellow trekkers.