From the Archives...

It did occur to me that I hadn't posted any photos of Xela. There are a few reasons for this. First, I didn't find all that much of Xela interesting (aesthetically). The second is the large indigenous population made me apprehensive about taking out my camera.

As I mentioned in an early post, many Mayans have a problem with photography. As a tourist you are supposed to ask before you photograph anyone who looks indigenous. I simply really didn't want to take the time to ask. I know, I know, that's probably not the best viewpoint to take, but I really didn't want to bother people. Plus, I think photos are much better when you develop a raport with the person(s). It's difficult to do that on the street.

So, the following photos are what I saw just about everyday in Xela. This is central park, the area around which are municipal buildings, banks, etc. I think this is the nicest looking area in the city.

Xela is located at about 7,000 ft. elevation. You can see the mountains in the background.


On thing Xela does have going for it is a lack of smog. Mornings tend to be very bright and sunny and you have a great view of the surrounding mountains.

In the photo above and to the left, if you look at the area of mountains in between the right column and the small white dome, that's where La Muela (from the 4th of July post) is located.

Back in the U.S.A.

Made it safely back home. But I don't have a cell phone at the moment (or access to anyone's number).

Thanks!

I'm writing this from my hotel room in Dos Lunas. This has to be the best $22.00 I've spent on this trip. The Dutch couple that run the place are very nice and welcoming.

My article is coming along nicely. How often do you get to tie in John Denver, Gene Wilder, and an exploding orange into one article about Guatemala? This is what I love about my job. I never know what to expect other than something.

I fly back tomorrow (Friday, July 10).

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who spent any time on this blog--from one second to an hour or more. Even though this is largely a one-way medium, I feel like this has been a strong link back home.

I have mailed postcards to everyone who requested one. But, Guatemala being Guatemala, I suspect most of the cards will arrive sometime in August.

Traveling alone is a unique experience. You have to rely on yourself, and you can't take shortcuts. I met only a couple of people who were traveling alone for an extended period of time (> a month). But I did meet a lot of couples (e.g. from France, Germany, the U.S.) who were traveling together for 6 months or more.

Some of you may ask me if I plan to return to Guatemala. I am not captivated by Guatemala. I've spent a total of 8 weeks in the country. It has its pretty moments and places. But at its heart, the country is one of poverty, lack of resources, lack of education, and it is full of corruption. This is a country that seems to have lost its way. It is not moving forward nor backward. It simply exists.

During the last 4 weeks I spent here, I lived with a couple--Maria and Hugo. (ed--forgot to get a photo, damn!) They have 4 (I think) grown children and have been together they were 15 years old. Of the 3 homes I have lived in in Guatemala, their home was the most welcoming and inviting. If I do return to Guatemala, it will be to live with them again while attending school.

This may not be my last post. Yes, a twist! I may release the Archive of Almost-Posted and some other fun things I may come up with.

July 4th

So, how does an American celebrate 4th of July in a foreign country?

a) Drive around the town square in a pickup blaring the Star-Spangled Banner?
b) Walk around the town square wearing nothing but the flag and chanting "We're Number 1! We're Number 1!"
c) Hiking with the enemy--a young woman from England.



Of course the first 2 are outrageously attractive prospects. But I chose option C and headed to La Muela ("the molar"). Rose is a university student in England studying Spanish and art. She also lives in the same house with me. And, strangely enough, she's a source for one of my articles.

La Muela is an area of volcanic rock formations just outside of Xela. It's also a religious pilgrimage site. Religious heritages from the Maya and Christianity have created enclaves at the base of the rocks.




That's July 4th Guatemala style.

Chicken Bus

I've been waiting for the right time to capture the "chicken bus" experience. Basically, the chicken bus is a cheap and painfully slow way to travel across Guatemala. (This isn't unique to Guatemala, many other countries use this sort of thing.) 90% of the buses are old buses taken from the U.S.--the big yellow school bus most of us took to school at some point. The buses have been repainted and instead of carrying 2 or 3 to a seat, they are expected to carry 4 in the seat and 2 in the aisle if necessary. But, for $3.00 you can travel 1.5 hours (fares are based on destination not time).

Well, before the bus takes off from a terminal, a lot of people come aboard to sell peanuts, beverages, newspapers, etc. From then on, there are little stops along the road the speed of which can, at times, rival a NASCAR pit stop--people get on, off, luggage taken off the top, put on. Often the rear door isn't closed before the bus starts moving. The ayudante (basically the person in charge of collecting money and coordinating stops) often hangs onto the ladder outside and shuts the door later.

So, why THIS chicken bus experience? At this small stop we picked up a preacher! He preached for probably 30 minutes (in Spanish, of course). This particular bus was about 70% full. I'm standing in front of the rear exit with one hand grasping the luggage rack and the other my camera. I hope the video gives a glimpse into the world of 2nd class transportation.

*If you wait till the end of the video, we hit a bump and I accidentally knock Rose, my travel partner, in the head.

From San Pascual altar just outside of Chichicastenango. You have to walk through the woods and up a small hill to reach the site. Mayan leaders often perform ceremonies (based on Christian and Mayan beliefs) here.

Tajumulco is the highest point in Central America. The summit is about 13,800 feet. That's probably the highest place I've been by 2,000 feet. It was grueling trek through mud, rain, hail, and lightning. I can't write much more because I'm working on the article. But I can tell each of you in person when I get back.

But in the meantime, I've got some video. So, 7 of us were stuck in a tent from about 3:00pm to 3:30am. Ehud (the Israeli) was asleep when I made this. He is a really cool guy who spent 4 years in the IDF. But everyone else was awake. So, just a short, simple introduction of my fellow trekkers.

La Mordida...A Cat and Mouse story

La mordida is a Spanish word for ¨bite¨ (like what a dog might do). It also means something else--paying off the police.

Last night I was at a bar that stays open after the official close of business. Bars of this sort hire workers to hide outside and watch for local police. When the guard spots the police, he immediately alerts the bar mananger. Everything in the bar stops. The lights go out. The music stops. People stop talking.

Then the knocking starts.

The police know which bars stay open late. They need only to catch a bar in the act of operating and then extort a given amount of cash. SO, the police started knocking on the bar door and ringing the door bell. Their knocking and ringing, of course, is met with silence.

Sometimes the subterfuge works, and the police move on to the next bar. Last night it didn´t. The bar had to hand over 300 quetzales (about $40.00) No one gets arrested; there are no ¨official¨fines to pay for staying open late. One local I asked told me that each week a given bar has to pay up. It is simply the cost of doing business in Guatemala.

I made the video several days ago and just haven´t been able to upload it. No script makes for bad dialogue. But hopefully this give you more of an idea of the house in which I´m living.

(The dog is named Thor.)

Hola from Xela

I made it to Xela (pronounced: shay-luh) on Sunday. And I've been trying to get a feel for the city. I have a couple of videos to post, but I need to find a faster internet connection. I will say that the city is not immediately what I expected. It's definitely a big city (300,000 people compared to Antigua's 35,000).

I promise to post more as soon as I can! Please check back soon.

Swine Flu Redux?

I thought the "swine flu" had run its course. But I guess I was wrong. At the airport when I flew in I had to fill out a health form asking me a bunch of questions such as "Do I feel ill? Have a fever? etc." I then handed the form to a masked agent who briefly read it over and put it in a pile. I though that was the last of it.

Earlier this week, schools across Guatemala were shut down. I have heard 2 versions of this story. The first version is that the shutdown is part of a nationwide strategy to curb any resergence in the disease. The other story is that the schools were slated to close anyway for a brief recess in the normal schedule.

I can't say what the real story is. But according to the AP story linked above 11 people in the last 24 hours have become infected.

When is a Streetcorner Dangerous?

Earlier this week my Spanish teacher told me a story about what happened to her nephew in the early 1980s. During the worst years of the war in Guatemala, Antigua was relatively safe. Most of the guerilla activity was in the mountains surrounding the town rather than in the town itself. Antigua wasn't safe enough.


Her nephew was waiting for his girlfriend one evening at the street corner (above) when he was approached by what amounted to secret police. He was held in a jail in Guatemala city for 2 weeks and tortured. Later, they released him. Sometime after his release, her nephew saw the man who had tortured him. But he could not bring himself to say the man's name much less press charges or seek any sort of legal remedy.

El Mercado

So, I was walking through the market (El Mercado) this weekend, and I knew that photos just would not convey the experience. I handheld my camera through a long strip of the market. The video is 3 minutes long. Short of uranium and Revolutionary War muskets, everything is sold at this market--



Here are some of the items that you may see in the video.

- Toilet paper

- Goldfish swimming in plastic bags
- Watches
- Normal fruit

- strange fruits

- Underwear

- Shrimp

In Antigua for One More Week

Earlier this week, we got our first big rain. Lots of lightning and thunder. Lots of water. My waterproof kicks have paid off! As you could tell from my earlier video post, my "classroom" is outside but covered. So, we continue to have class under a tin roof with lightning. Eh, no worries.

The weird thing about the rain is you never know when it will happen. Every day, big grey clouds threaten rain, but it doesn't always happen.

In other news, I have decided to extend my stay in Antigua for one more week. I really liked my teacher and the school, and I'm learning a lot. Still will be in school for a total of 6 weeks. Only now I'll be in Quetzaltenango for only 3 weeks.

I've got some more video and images of things in and around the town forthcoming!

Capuchin Church and Convent

Capuchin Church and Convent:

This dates to the early 18th century. When I can find more history on it, I'll update the post. But for now, please enjoy the photos and video.

This is a shot from the outside some sort of structure. The grounds are very lush. Unfortunately, I can't tell you what you're looking at. There wasn't much historical information provided at the site.

This is a shot from the inside of the church. Given it's age, it's tremendously well preserved.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say these are old bathtubs. Again, no information provided. But they look deep enough and the right size for a person.

VIDEO 1: This is inside the structure you see in the first photograph. Legend has it, according to my teacher, that the rooms to which these doorways lead were used solitary prayer as well as penitence. My teacher has also relayed some rather dark history of this particular convent--torture. Nuns who became pregnant were severly punished in these and other rooms.

VIDEO 2: This is the courtyard area.

Want a Postcard?

Things are going great right now. Today marks the start of my second week in the country. It actually seems like I've been here for a while already (and I still have 6 more weeks). But with spending about 7 hours in class for 5 days, it starts to get a little tiring. I do feel like I've learned (or relearned) a great deal.

The First (real) Post

So, this is my first (real) post from Guatemala. And you got some text and some videos.

Until today I was in a house with 5 other students. But 3 have left for a different house as of this afternoon. Apparently, their school (which is a different school than the one I'm in) had to rearrange some things. I'll write more about my family here later.

At my school it's a 1:1 student-teacher ratio. Most of the people I've met are with a group. For instance, right now there's a large group of students from the University of the Pacific. Next week (I've been told), apparently another group will be coming in from a different school.

So, one thing I wanted to do with this blog is make some videos--in addition to photos--with my D90. The two videos below are my first attempts.

I shot the first video inside my classroom. It's the first video I've made since 9th grade. (My 9th grade video was probably better. Sorry about the quality, but a lot of data was lost in the transfer onto the blogger site.)


The second video is a short tour of the backyard of my school. The small red rooms you see are classrooms.

UPDATE SOON

I'm in Antigua, Guatemala. School started today. I will be updating with some photos soon. (Internet connection is not bad.)

NEWS Update

Still no additional evidence in the story of the murdered lawyer. But that has not stopped a growing movement of people against the president...

AP News:

"Thousands of Guatemalans protested Sunday to demand the president resign over accusations that he ordered a lawyer killed, a scandal threatening the rule of the country's first leftist leader more than 50 years..."

NEWS: A lawyer and a president

As of today, it looks like the biggest news in the country is a scandal involving a murdered lawyer and Guatemala’s president. Tell me if this sounds like a movie:


On May 10, 2009, Rodrigo Rosenberg—a lawyer—was riding his bike in Guatemala City. “Unknown assailants” shot and killed him.

On May 11, a video surfaced. Rosenberg made a tape before he died! And on this tape Rosenberg, talking directly into the camera, stated that should anything happen to him (like, say, being murdered while biking—ed.), President Alvaro Colom should be blamed.

Apparently, Rosenberg was a vocal opponent of Colom and recently accused Colom in the murders of Khalil Musa and Musa’s daughter in April of this year. You can read all about it here.
Now, apparently, protestors have taken to the street demanding an investigation into President Colom.


I know nothing about the president or Rosenberg. Therefore, I have no opinion. We’ll have to wait and see whether the political unrest, which appears minor at the moment, will escalate if/when more evidence surfaces.



BTW: If you want to learn more about Guatemala, you can check out the CIA World Factbook page.

Welcome

Since I know you all want desperately to know what I'm doing for the next several weeks, I've created this page.

Here are the basics:

I'm in Guatemala from May 24 to mid-July. I'll be in two different Spanish schools.

- One school is in La Antigua. It's a fairly small town that I spent a week in back in December 2008. I'll be there for a couple of weeks.


- The other school is in Quetzaltenango (Xela). There are about 300,000 people in the city. I'll be there for 4 weeks.

I'm also working on two magazine articles. One has to do with volunteers helping a school for street kids. The other is about a unique collaboration between environmental conservation and political/economic development.

I've created a map where you can track my (geographic) progress.
(The map may need a little extra time to load...)